Watching the bowl take form is the most time consuming and rewarding process. Start off by finding bottom pieces that will allow any other shards to fit into them from any direction. You can use masking tape to sort of loosely hold shards together while you figure out where they all go. You need to have a general idea of where most pieces go before you attempt to semi-permanently attach them. I know you're anxious to play with it, but you'll just end up gluing your finger to your ear, so put it down. You heard me, put it down.no, seriously, put it down. It is best to start out with the bottom pieces of the bowl, or you'll undoubtedly end up "painting yourself into a corner." First off, put down the glue. Once all pieces have been thoroughly cleaned, lay them aside on paper towels to air dry. I have found that a soft bristled toothbrush will remove the dirt from the nooks and crannies of the edges, without being overly aggressive. Aboriginal painted vessels are oil based, so this method also works for me with no adverse affects, 'knocking on simulated wood.' Edge treatment is the most important part of the cleaning process, to insure a tight fit when gluing. If doing it from sink and running water, you risk small pieces breaking loose and losing them forever.
I recommend doing all of this from a large plastic container. Do not get carried away in the cleaning process, or force removal of deposits, as this could risk damaging the pottery. Very gently clean both faces of the shards by rubbing lightly with your fingers. Find a large container, fill it with water and then put your pottery shards in. WASH ALL PIECES - A light rinsing will work on most pottery, but every now and then you'll run into pieces that really have some caked up crud. Knife or carving tools (X-acto works well) Paper Towels With this guide, I'm going to attempt to give you a better understanding of what goes into the pottery restoration process, and give you the confidence to try it for yourselves.ĭurham's Rock Hard Water Putty (available at hardware store or lumberyard)Īcrylic Paints (no neon colors, only flat "earthy" colors) Some professional restoration can lead into big bucks, and if you're as cheap as I am, the budget won't allow it. It seems that for any item of antiquity that can be broken, battered, or abused, there's someone out there who can fix it-furniture, vehicles, guns, arrowheads, pottery, your grandpa's toupee. Restoration has been practiced for a very long time, commercially and for the hobbyist.
Most items are much more eye appealing as well as valuable restored, than in their former broken state.
Complete bowls can be incredibly expensive and sometimes sack pots are the only viable alternative. They are the ultimate ancient 3D jigsaw puzzle. If you have a bit of free time on your hands and don't mind some hair-tugging frustration, then I think you'll love them also. The majority come broken and glued, or in pieces ready for you to assemble, commonly referred to as "sack pots." Sack pots are my personal favorite, but I'm a glutton for punishment. Complete vessels are next to impossible to find. Due to strict laws, availability, and increasing market demand, they are becoming more difficult to obtain. Earthenware vessels used to be an easily acquired commodity, available for a moderate price. While stone items are still the number one collectible, no collection is complete without pottery. Ancient ceramics are a wonderful way to add spice to any artifact display.
0 kommentar(er)
